Such memorial diamonds are synthetic, lab created diamonds — not natural diamonds. But they are chemically identical with a natural diamond in that they are made from carbon. They are not ‘imitation’ or ‘simulant’ diamonds, ie another substance than carbon pretending to be or resembling diamond. They are the real thing, just made by people instead of nature.

A cremation diamond is increasingly popular as a way of remembering loved ones who have passed away, whether they were human or animal. The memorial diamond or hair diamond can be cut and polished in just the same way as a regular diamond and mounted as a gemstone in a piece of jewelry, or otherwise used as a normal gem. Generally, the final color of the stone will be a pale golden yellow or blue (from, respectively, nitrogen or boron present during the creation of the crystal), though colorless, red or green diamonds can also be created by this process.

When hair is used as the basic material from which the diamond will be made, it is possible to obtain a detailed analysis of the hair showing its unique composition. The diamond made from that hair can also be identified uniquely according to a patented process. A  hair diamond can, of course, be made from the hair (or fur, nails, or hooves) of a loved one who is still living.

Around 250g of cremated remains are all that is needed to produce one small diamond. The final diamond size depends on budget and quantity of original material, but would usually be from around one-fifth of a carat to one carat. The process typically takes between six and nine months. At the moment, memorial diamonds are available in the US, UK, Russia, Japan, Netherlands, Switzerland and other countries.

Inclusions in a stone generally take the form of small discolored specks inside the stone, and many consider them to be part of the character of the diamond. Inclusions are often hidden by the setting, so don’t let the presence of minor inclusions put you off a stone straight away.

Clarity is measured on a scale from ‘F’ to ‘I’, with the letter(s) describing the grade of the stone as follows as below. Grades F through to SI will decrease in value as you go down the scale but it will be hard to detect a difference without magnification.

F – Flawless
These are extremely rare.

IF – Internally Flawless
No internal flaws, but might have minor surface flaws. Very rare.

VVS1 – VVS2 – Very Very Slightly Included
There are two grades in this category, with 1 being a higher grade than 2. Very small inclusions, difficult to detect under 10x magnification.

VS1-VS2 – Very Slightly Included
There are two grades in this category, with 1 being a higher grade than 2. Small inclusions seen with difficulty under 10x magnification.

SI1-SI2 – Slightly Included
Again two grades with 1 being higher. Small inclusions more easily seen under 10x magnification.

I1-I2-I3 – Included
Three grades, with 1 being the highest. Inclusions visible to the human eye without magnification.

Read more about: Cut, Color, Carats

Diamonds are also available in a range of colors, called ‘fancy’ color diamonds. These diamonds come in all the colors of the rainbow and they are graded differently to ‘white’ diamonds. Fancy diamonds are described by their primary color and a description of how strong the color is:
1. Faint
2. Very Light
3. Light
4. Fancy Light
5. Fancy
6. Fancy Dark
7. Fancy Intense
8. Fancy Deep
9. Fancy Vivid
So for example you might see a diamond rated as ‘Light Pink’ or ‘Fancy Intense Blue’.
The availability of fancy colors is one of the great features about created diamonds. Created diamonds can be purchased in a wide range of colors for a similar price. In comparison, good quality fancy colored natural diamonds sell for incredible sums. For example, fancy vivid pink natural diamonds can sell for well over $250,000 per carat!

Read more about: Cut, Clarity, Carats

Moissanite

Moissanite is named after its discoverer, Henri Moussan. He was digging around in Canyon Diablo in Arizona when he came upon it. Today a synthetic gem-cut version is popular in place of diamonds in jewelry.

Cubic Zirconia

Cubic zirconia is very hard, normally has no color, and is optically flawless. Chemically it is a form of zirconium dioxide. With moissanite running a close second, this is diamonds’ greatest synthetic competitor since the mid 1970’s, probably due to its affordability as much as any other single factor. Cubic zirconia rings are a popular choice for buyers with lower income who are still looking for a beautiful stone, and is considered one of the best simulated diamonds. Simulated diamond jewelry made with cubic zirconias is very common, particularly on ebay. Be cautious of how this is described if you’re after a real created diamond however, as some vendors make listings for CZ jewelry sound like the real thing.

Colourless Synthetic Corundum (sapphire)

Colourless synthetic corundum is very simple to create. Because of this the market became somewhat flooded, dropping the price. That said, it is still a beautiful sapphire stone.

Synthetic Spinel

This synthetic diamond simulant has been produced by both the Verneuil Process and the flux method (in Russia). It can be found in all naturally occurring colors, as well as some which don’t occur in nature. It is very lovely, I must say.

Strontium Titanate

The natural counterpart of this stone is called tausonite and was discovered long after the original synthesis in Siberia. Interestingly, strontium titanate is both denser and softer than real diamonds.

Yttrium Aluminium Garnet (YAG)

YAG is in the  garnet family. These diamond simulants are known for both their durability and their clarity. Unfortunately, the production was basically all but ceased with the emergence of cubic zirconia.

Gadolinium Gallium Garnet (GGG)

Gadolinium gallium garnet: say that three times fast! This is another member of the garnet family, obviously. It is most often found to be colorless. Its crystals are made through the Czochralski method and the color can be doped into various varieties.

So there you have it: a brief history of diamond simulants, both popular and rare. Remember that some of these would not necessarily make sense to purchase or use anymore nowadays, because they have been replaced by better looking and performing synthetics, such as the cubic zirconia. Nevertheless, it is good to know the history of simulants in order to understand what the state of the market is today, and what you might hear when shopping for a lab created diamond of your own.

First of all, most jewelers recommend that you should absolutely select your diamond before you start to consider the setting to put it in. Obviously the diamond is the centerpiece, and the setting is only the platform upon which it is presented. There is plenty of information here on choosing a lab created diamond, and after you have chosen one, you will have better information to use in making your choice of setting.

One of the most perennially favorite settings for diamonds is the bezel style. A lot of people think this is just an old-fashioned look, but in fact it can be cut in a way that is very modern. Its overall look and feel is that of both elegance and simplicity. That is why it appeals to so many women.

Bezel Setting

The prong, or “claw”, setting is very popular indeed. It may grace more women’s fingers than any other style in the world. It consists of at least three prongs which come up and then wrap around the crown of the diamond. This is very common in solitaire engagement rings.

Claw Setting

Finally, you may want to consider the beautiful and extravagant pave setting. This is made up of many diamonds which are held together by a system of beads. It gives the appearance of a bunch of radiant diamonds. In fact, you may even hear this one referred to as a “bead” styling.

Pave Setting

This is only a short list of the settings for diamonds that are available. Though it represents the most common kinds, you should shop around to find what works best for you and for the created diamond or other man made gem that you have chosen.

It is worth familiarizing yourself with the 4 Cs before shopping for any diamond, whether natural or created!
Cut, Color, Clarity, Carats